Patola
The Origin
Originating in Patan, Gujarat, Patola weaving is a rare and highly refined double-ikat technique where both warp and weft yarns are resist-dyed before weaving, resulting in striking, mirrored motifs on both faces of the fabric. For the brand, these textiles are an ancient craft, exacting skill and modern design brought together.
Yarn Selection & Planning The Design
The process begins with 100% Mulberry silk, selected and measured into precise hanks. The design is then mapped on graph paper, where each square represents a thread intersection, allowing the artisans to calculate the exact placement of every colour, motif and repeat.
Binding And Dyeing
Patola uses a single-ikat technique, with the design carried by the weft - the horizontal threads running through the fabric.
Following the graph, sections of these threads are tightly bound by hand. The bindings protect areas from the dye and need to be placed with incredible precision.
The yarn is then dyed using AZO-free dyes, one colour at a time from lightest to darkest. After each dye bath, the threads are rinsed, dried and re-bound before the next colour is added.
Once the final bindings are removed, the complete design can be seen across the yarn.
Preparing The loom
The dyed threads are carefully wound onto bobbins by hand, keeping them in exactly the same sequence so the pattern remains intact.
Setting up the loom alone takes around two days!
The vertical warp threads are stretched to the correct tension, while the heddles are threaded individually by hand.
Two artisans work together to prepare the loom and make sure every thread is correctly positioned.
Weaving the Pattern
The coloured threads are placed on the loom. Artisans work together, carefully bringing horizontal and vertical threads into place, weaving them. When they align perfectly, the pattern slowly appears, painting a picture of precision.
Woven on narrow looms through intense labour, the fabric slowly takes shape. In fine ikat, the patterns appear the same on both sides — there is no right or wrong side, only balance.