Tangaliya
Origin
Tangaliya is a traditional weaving technique from Gujarat, recognised by the tiny raised dots that form patterns across the fabric.
Known as daana, meaning ‘grain’, each dot is created by twisting additional weft threads around selected warp threads by hand as the fabric is woven. The daana appear on both sides of the cloth, giving Tangaliya its distinctive texture.
Yarn selection & dyeing
The process begins with cotton yarn, selected for its weight and texture, which determine the definition of Tangaliya’s raised daana dots. The yarn is then dyed using AZO free dyes, either by the supplier or artisan family, with each batch checked by eye for colour consistency.
Preparation Of Loom
Preparing the Tangaliya loom takes five to six days. The dyed yarn is wound onto bobbins by hand, while additional heddles are individually threaded and the warp is carefully tensioned across the loom. Two artisans work together to prepare the loom for weaving.
Creating The Daana
The tiny raised dots are known as daana, meaning ‘grain’.
As they weave, the artisans introduce additional weft threads and twist them around selected warp threads to create each daana by hand.
The dots appear on both sides of the fabric and are individually placed and counted to form the pattern. Subtle differences in the maker’s hand give each length of Tangaliya its own character.
Weaving the Pattern
Two artisans work together at the loom - one controls the warp, while the other passes the weft shuttle and places the additional daana threads.
The daana are placed intuitively as the artisans weave, allowing the design to develop through their judgement and instinct.
Around 1.5 metres of Tangaliya fabric are produced each day, with natural variations making every piece slightly different.